Cha ee ya gi, Insadong

In Insadong, turn onto a side street and then veer off into an alley.

In Insadong you'll find Cha ee ya gi, a homey little restaurant with eastern and western style seating options. Open kitchen? If the place is busy you're practically standing in it while you're waiting for them to clear your table.

The table is barely big enough to hold the ban chan, the plate of various greens, the tea cups, and rice cups.

The other half of the table. Note the assortment of greens for wrapping the grilled meat. A small white dish of salt, for the sam gyeop sal, is visible in the foreground. Above it are some marinated mountain vegetables (slightly bitter, quite tasty), and above that is a small pot of daeng jang. There are large pieces of whole soybean in it, and it is quite delicious. Korean-Americans are known to go crazy for homemade daeng jang. If someone is making it, word will spread and people will flock from miles around to buy some. I have some daeng jang at home that's over 15 years old that I have to guard with my life. It'll be a family heirloom, for sure.

Rice served in a section of real bamboo cooked with beans and Korean dates. It is sealed with rice paper when delivered to your table. A piece of charcol, seen to the left, is placed on top before serving. I really don't know what it's for but I guess it's for a cleansing effect.