Puerto Rico

Pondering life while lying on a quiet beach near the Guanica dry forest.

We scored free tickets on JetBlue and booked a long weekend in the real America Junior. R. W. Apple's NYT article "Puerto Rico, flavored with contradictions," got it right. "You can't spend five minutes here without realizing that you're on American territory, and you can't spend six without feeling that you're abroad."

After fifteen minutes of highway driving we saw a three car (plus motorcycle) pile-up unfold two lanes over from us. On the way back from Luquillo beach we observed a several more car accidents and the running of many red lights, albeit at such a lackadasial pace it was more like "strolling." Years ago I heard that it was inadvisable to stop at red lights at night in Puerto Rico for fear of one's safety. These days no one seems to stop at a red light at any time of the day, but not for safety concerns.

Then there was the ultra-damp hotel room. Note to self: always remember to check the plumbing immediately after checking in, and in particular, make sure a shower head exists.

The proliferation of McDonald's, Walgreens, Taco Bell, and Home Depot came as a surprise. Starbucks was absent, but not exactly surprising. It was sad to see the natural beauty of the island coast marred by the proliferation of strip malls and chain stores.

The tropical climate lends itself to some foods better than others. For example: avoid creme brulee and croissants. However, there was much to like about the local food, such as the beef alcapurrias we bought from a road side food stand. The half pineapple with fresh fruit at La Bombonera had an unexpected presentation that drew looks from tables around us (and most importantly, was delicious). We ate at the Parrot Club and at Chayote, but I think the most enjoyable meal I had was at a lechonera in the hills of Cayey.

Here we see several cuts from the roasted pig, rice and beans, and maduros. In my narrow suburban childhood mind, pork rinds were some sort of mythical hillbilly relic. Here, the cueritos (crispy skin, or basically, pork rinds) were a revelation. It appears that suckling pig is available here in New York, but I may have to go to the Bronx to find something as tasty and as inexpensive as our meal was. $60 for two at AOC Bedford... less than $7 for two in Cayey.

For being on an island, it sometimes took considerable effort to find the beaches. We blew right past Luquillo on our first try. We drove south across the island to find another beach. The drive itself was a welcome change from the hectic traffic around San Juan and offered an interesting combination of forests, mountains, and a hot, desert-like stretch. Unfortunately, our beach was replaced by a water park... under construction. It wasn't the first or last time we had problems with maps. We continued west through a rusty industrial section and eventually ended up at a small beach in Guanica. The sand was warm from the sun, the water was warm and tranquil, and a friendly life guard was on hand with hydrocortisone spray when Yoo Mee was stung by a jellyfish. We lay down on a woven grass matt and listen to the trees swaying in the breeze. If only a food stand were nearby, things would be perfect.

But just as things were getting comfortable, it was time to go. First trips are like that.